Island hopping in Krabi and Trang: How to avoid tourist hell

Nothing to do with cycling, but if you're in the area and want to avoid following the crowds to Phuket, Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lipe, read on.

Ko Mook - what an absolute gem. We took a transport package with Tigerline from Krabi: minivan + coach + ferry. This cost 1250 baht each which seemed pretty steep, but it was very convenient. Arriving in Ko Mook, we felt pretty smug as it looked absolutely gorgeous at high tide. We stayed at Ko Mook hostel which is basic but great - chilled and the guy is really kind - he will take you anywhere on the island for free in his sidecar taxi. Breakfast is included. We stayed for 3 nights which we thought was perfect - plenty of time to explore the various beaches and go to the Emerald Cave (if you go early you will only share it with a handful of people - just grab a longtail from Charlie Beach). While the hostel isn't on the beach, it is surrounded by eating options. We particularly liked Perfect Bar - incredible setting, fantastic food, cocktails for 80 baht in Happy Hour, and ridiculously lovely owners.

Ko Kradan - ridiculously beautiful! We chartered a longtail from the pier on Ko Mook for 800 baht, meaning we could go exactly when we liked - recommended. For me, the island didn't quite have the charm of Ko Mook (no one lives there - it's all resorts) but my companions disagreed. We stayed at Kradan Island resort which gets pretty dreadful reviews, but if you're used to basic facilities (eg cold shower with no water pressure, slightly broken door) and don't mind a few bugs, it's fine. It was clean and the mozzie nets looked brand new. And it's literally on the beach - pretty special. Some reviewers complain about rats but we didn't see any - we did keep our food out of the bungalow as a precaution. The owner and staff are a bit hopeless, so we only ate breakfast there once, but they were still kind and helpful, if a bit slow! We ate at Kalume a few times - incredible pizzas! All the restaurants are pretty pricey. The snorkelling off the beach in front of Ao Niang resort is fantastic (this looks like it might be a cheap place to stay but not sure it's online....you can also camp at the national park headquarters). We stayed two nights, but it would be easy to stay longer if you like lounging on paradise beaches with amazing views!

Ko Lanta - hardly undiscovered, but it is undeniably beautiful, has tons of eating options, loads to see / do, is a nice contrast to the smaller islands, and was actually very quiet. We took the Petpailin ferry for 600 baht each - it docks at Lanta Old Town and then they take you to your guesthouse front door! We stayed 2 nights on Khlong Nin beach, which is pretty chilled. We stayed at Pakgasri guesthouse which is (fairly) cheap and cheerful, and right on the beach. We stayed another night at Lemonade Boutique, which is very close to Khlong Dao beach and also very nice and CHEAP! Recommended. We expected Khlong Dao to be busy, but not at all. We also thought it was more scenic that Khlong Nin (although that isn't bad either!). We did a cooking course at Time for Lime - highly recommended. So much fun and all their profits go to their own Animal Welfare centre, which is music to the ears of animal lovers like myself, who are horrified at the state of many of the dogs and cats in this region!

We travelled back to Krabi by minivan, which picked us up from our resort in Lanta and dropped us off at the hostel front door in Krabi, for 300 baht each. We met an American girl who was lamenting the horrible state of both Phi Phi and Phuket - so do yourself a favour and steer clear!! On a previous visit, we also went to Ko Jum which is equally as wonderful as Ko Mook / Kradan, and an easy hop from Lanta / Krabi.