Lang Co to Hoi An: Hai Van pass

Monday November 20, 2017, 42 miles (68 km) - Total so far: 2,042 miles

(3,287 km)

We woke up to monsoon-style rain, which had us thinking we'd need to stay put for the day. It eased off at about 10am, so we hot-footed it out of the door before it could start again and make us change our minds. Of course, it started again about ten minutes later but, once you're out in it, you might as well carry on!

The climb over the Hai Van pass is 10km in length, and we reckoned it would average around 6 0radient. It was slightly less steep than this, and actually manifests as a series of steepish sections interspersed with flatter bits. It felt very manageable to us - but we have had a lot of training in Thailand and Laos, and it was also considerably easier than many climbs we faced there so perhaps our judgement is skewed! Despite the rain, it was a wonderful ride. Atmospheric views through the dripping jungle foliage, thundering waterfalls and many, many thumbs up and shouts of encouragement (incredulity?) from passing motorcyclists and drivers. I've read several accounts of people taking the bus on account of the wet weather, but I encourage you to go for it if you are faced with the same dilemma!

The descent was fun but we did take it easy due to the conditions. Once on the other side, it's a very flat ride into Danang, where we grabbed some lunch.....and were glad we did, as the ride through the city and out the other side is quite an experience! Good training for HCMC, perhaps. We followed the coast road down towards Hoi An, and expected the traffic to thin out.....but it's not far off continuous hotels between Danang and the beach resorts connected to Hoi An. And very, very busy. We would definitely have gone inland if we'd known this.

Once we turned off the busy coastal road, things felt a bit more 'normal' again. Entering Hoi An itself is the usual level of hectic, but fine really.

We are staying at Hoang Thu homestay which is very nice, although at $13 somewhat less cheap than we're used to! We'd already ridden around a fair bit and were hanging on for a shower, so maybe we could have held out for something cheaper. We're a bit out of the main area I think - its certainly a lot more peaceful anyway. And a nice big gate that will be closed with our bikes safely inside :)

Lunch no.2 was at Cafe 41 - just because it was there, but actually the food was really excellent.
Dinner at Minh Hien 2 - veggie place. Also pretty good, and they have fresh beer (bia hoi) for 5000 dong.
Drinks at Yum Yum which had a lot more atmosphere, funny staff and the food menu looked good too.