Cambodia: summary and route

We didn't expect much from Cambodia....and yet really loved it. Maybe the low expectations helped! It does not have wow factor scenery, but the countryside is very pretty, and small villages often have charm. Even the larger, dusty towns have interest, particularly when their market is operating. Kampong Cham was a particular highlight - not dissimilar to Kampot, but with far fewer tourists. Just a pleasant town for a spot of relaxing. We'd love to go back and cycle in the East, and also out through the Cardamom Mountains.

The people are a delight - friendly and interested, but not at all overwhelming. Stopping at a roadside cafe or drinks stall (of which there are millions - look out for the red coolers!) was a highlight every time we did it. Finding food was extremely easy as everywhere we went had English menus 'or an English speaker - this came as a surprise. We were also pleasantly surprised by the standard of accommodation - decent rooms for $5-7, sometimes with a cold shower but really great. Not a squat toilet or bucket shower in sight.

I'd read so many horror stories about the roads that we were really apprehensive, so huge thanks to the recent bloggers who went North of Tonle Sap and thus encouraged us to do the same. Route 6 is (currently) fabulous - smooth and wide, and not dissimilar to a Thai highway. It's also not too busy (apart from entering Siem Reap) and the views are pleasant. We'd recommend our detour to Prey Veng and Kampong Cham for some variety, and far quieter roads. While we didn't really feel like this was 'off the beaten track', it was more so than the rest.

We enjoyed the temples of Angkor, but with hindsight I think it would suit us better to explore the lesser-visited sites around Kompong Thom. Next time!