Luang Prabang to Kiew Kacham

Wednesday October 25, 2017, 48 miles (77 km) - Total so far: 1,109 miles

(1,785 km)

What a day. We were expecting steeper gradients, but the climbs were tough nonetheless. The most ascent we've achieved in a single day....but nowhere near as steep as some of the roads in Thailand (thank goodness!!). Bottom line

• if you survived the Mae Hong Son loop, you'll be fine! It splits into two long, gradual climbs. The second is longer, which felt pretty brutal in the second half of the day. Feel free to stalk me on strava if you would like ascent profiles etc.

It was pretty hazy for most of the day - not great for photos but still stunning....except for the Power China eyesores.

A great relief to arrive in Kiew Kacham (Kiou Kacham?) and find a cozy room at the Kiokajam (!) Guesthouse. We were surprised that it was 100,000 kip - they do also have 80,000 kip rooms but they were a lot more dingy. Accounts of previous cyclists suggested we could expect a bucket shower....I'm pleased to report they now have the electric variety. Teeny bathrooms but they do the job.

We met a friendly French couple who have cycled here from Turkey! They stayed at the 'other' guesthouse and reported that it was only 50,000 kip, but a bit cobwebby. I think they were desensitised in China, judging by their stories!

Breakfast was shakes and baguettes from the nice lady we'd visited previously in Luang Prabang. Cheap and delicious, although it's not guaranteed you'll get exactly what you ordered ;)
Lunch was takeaway baguettes from the same place - they go a bit soggy but sooooo goood when you've just climbed a huge hill.
Dinner was at the restaurant right outside the guesthouse. Typical 'service without a smile' but the fried rice was excellent.